Garden Tutorials

Summer Vegetable Gardening

Wed, 9 Jun 2010 13:34:55 -0400

Gardening during the South Florida summer is quite different than anywhere else in the continental US. Our summer climate is much more like the Caribbean in nature: hot humid days AND nights, which is the tipping point for some plants, making them unable to sustain themselves. To survive a South Florida summer, a plant must be able to withstand both the humid days and the hot humid nights, without much temperature variation.
By drawing our plant palette from the Caribbean and other hot, humid lowland habitats, we can grow an interesting array of material that is both edible and beautiful. The following are lists of some of those plants which I consider to be especially noteworthy.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, “try everything, keep what works” is a good gardening philosophy in general, but is especially key during the summer months.
PAPAYA- Really a vegetable/herb, and shouldn’t be overlooked in the home garden. It’s easy to grow and produces literally pounds of delicious and nutritious fruit, which can either be eaten green or ripe. Buy one in the grocery store and plant the seeds.
CALABAZA- You can find this squash in the grocery aisle as well; it’s the bright orange one cut into pieces with the seeds intact; a gift to you, the astute gardener! Plant them now for an amazing, delicious and nutritious harvest this fall. Give them plenty of room to grow and a good organic fertilizer such as Black Hen. Other hard shelled squashes can be planted as well, such as pumpkin, Luffa, and others.
BANANAS/PLANTAINS-Again, mostly thought of as a fruit, but is actually an herb. These plants relish the heat and humidity, so don’t neglect to have some of these. They can multiply quickly, so you will always have plenty to give to friends. Nothing can compare to the taste of home grown bananas; they are so superior!
PINEAPPLES- Another freebie from the grocery store. Buy one, eat the fruit and plant the top. If you keep doing this, year after year, you will have your very own pineapple grove! The tops take more than a year to fruit the first time, but less time after that.
BEANS/PEAS- One of the easiest vegetables to grow and loves the summer heat. Pigeon Peas are a Caribbean staple and that is because they make a sturdy 5 foot bush that produces year round and can last up to 5 years of production. Plant them during the heat of summer. Need a quick hedge? They’re your edible solution. Pole beans are another good grower; they are delicious and being a vertical crop, save space. Got a chain link fence? They’re another edible solution. Jicama is another lesser known legume grown for its starchy tuber, which tastes similar to a water chestnut.
AMARANTHUS- This is a South American crop that produces either greens or seeds. It is one of the few vegetable greens that grow during the summer season. It’s hearty and delicious, also known as Calalloo. Other lesser known tropical greens to check out: Katuk, Moringa, Okinawa Spinach and Malabar Spinach.
PURSLANE- Known for its beautiful flowers, it is also a delicious green eaten either raw or cooked. One of the few vegetable sources of Omega 3 fatty acids.
OKRA- There are several seed varieties to choose from; all do well during the summer in full sun and an enriched nematode free soil.
SWEET POTATOES- These can be sprouted whole and the growths, called “slips” planted. They make a great ground cover.
CHAYOTE SQUASH- This squash can be purchased for less than a dollar at the grocery and planted whole. It will become a beautiful edible vine perfect for a pergola or other large trellised area.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE (Helianthus tuberosus) - Actually native to North America and used by the American Indians, this Sunflower relative is grown for its tubers which look like knobby potatoes. It is dug up and planted each year, similar to potatoes. Its tubers are rich in inulin which doesn’t raise blood sugar.
For more great information about growing some of the lesser known veggies that do especially well in South Florida, check out the website below from The University Of Florida
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_hs_minor_vegetables

Attracting Birds and Butterflies

Sun, 9 May 2010 10:19:25 -0400

The following list of plants has been chosen for ease of growing, beauty and suitability for the South Florida home landscape. They are proven to be excellent wildlife attractors. For more information on creating a Backyard Wildlife Habitat: www.nwf.org.

Arugula - herb, sun to pt. shade; host for Great Southern White butterfly; edible, winter only
White Bacopa - ground cover, keep moist, host for White Peacock butterfly
Beautyberry – sun-pt shade, 6 ft; nectar for butterflies, fruit for birds
Biscayne Prickly Ash, Citrus - 10-20 ft; host for Giant Swallowtail
Cassias - small trees and shrubs, full sun; host for many Sulphur butterflies
Coffee – native shrub, pt. shade, 6 ft; nectar for butterflies, fruit for birds
Coontie – ground cover, sun-shade, 2 ft; host for Atala butterfly
Coreopsis – native wildflowers, sun to pt. shade; nectar for butterflies, seed for birds
Dill, Fennel, Parsley, Rue – herbs, pt. shade; host for Black Swallowtail butterfly
Dutchman’s pipe. – vine, sun to pt. shade; host for Polydamas Swallowtail
Firebush – sun to shade, 15 ft; nectar for butterflies and hummers, fruit for birds. This is one of the best!
Gaillardia, Blanket Flower - native wildflower; great for butterflies and beneficial insects. Beautiful orange and yellow blooms almost year round and reseeds.
Herbs – various mints, basil; nectar for beneficial insects and butterflies
Jamaican Caper – 10 ft, host for Florida White butterfly, fruit for birds
Jatropha – 15 ft, full sun; nectar for butterflies and hummingbirds
Milkweeds – host for Monarch, Queen butterfly also nectar source
Mulberry- tree to 30 ft, full sun; fruit for birds, host for Red Admiral butterfly; edible
Passion vines – natives only; host for Zebra, Julia, Gulf fritillary; fruit for birds. Passiflora suberosa, incarnata and incense are best.
Red Bay – native tree to 40 ft, full sun, host for Palamedes Swallowtail, fruit for birds; culinary use. Can be kept potted.
Shrimp plant – 3 ft, pt. shade, red, yellow; nectar for butterflies and hummers
Salvias. – wildflowers, sun to pt. shade; nectar for butterflies and hummingbirds. Salvia coccinea is best.
Simpson Stopper – sun to shade, 20 ft; nectar for butterflies, fruit for birds
Spiderwort – wildflower, 1 ft, sun to part shade; nectar for butterflies
Sunflowers – start from seed; nectar for butterflies, seed for birds
Zinnia – start from seed; nectar for butterflies, seed for birds

The Garden Gate has been bringing you the most complete selection of Butterfly attracting plants for the past ten years.

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Jackfruit

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 16:38:26 -0500

Who is Jack, anyways? Coming soon!

Water Garden Basics

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 11:19:02 -0400

Water gardening is actually easier than any other type of gardening once you understand a few basics - just add water! First use a water neutralizer sold at aquarium stores to eliminate the chemicals; they don’t all evaporate. Here are the cast of characters:

Oxygenators: I list these first, because they are the most important aspect of maintaining a pond or water garden free of unsightly algae. Having plenty of these plants will absorb all of the waste products and sunlight available leaving none for the algae. If you have algae, then you don’t have enough of these; it’s that simple. Types of plants to use: Mare’s Tail, Anacharis, Bacopa, Micromeria. All are native and non invasive. They just float beneath the surface and filter the water for you, providing oxygen, as their name implies. They also provide cover for fish. These are a must have! They will grow and multiply. If you end up with more than you need, they make great mulch or compost.

Surface Floaters: These plants such as Fairy Moss, Water Poppy, Floating Heart, and others just hang out. Their leaves grace the surface, and their roots hang down. They also filter and oxygenate the water. Having these will decrease the amount of sunlight and therefore, you will be less likely to have algae. A water garden should have some of these.

Marginal or Bog plants: These plants should be planted in containers. I like to use clay pots because they are porous, and able to filter the excess nutrients from fish. (aka: free fertilizer!) They can be submerged up to 4 inches above the crown of the plant (That’s where the leaves come together at the center.) I like to use small river rock/gravel. It doesn’t make a mess and leaves plenty of air space for healthy roots. There is a wide variety of plant material available. Some of my favorites: Bog Iris, Cardinal Flower, Arrowhead, Curly Rush and many others. If your pond doesn’t have a shelf to put these on, then simply prop up the pot with another turned upside down until you have the appropriate depth for the plant.

Tropical Water Lilies: These are the queens of the pond, and rightly so! Tropical Lilies should not be confused with Hardy Lilies, which will grow here, but still go dormant for 6 months; don’t use them. While the Tropicals may cost more, they are a better investment because they will bloom 365 days a year, as long as you have them in full sun and not near any running water. They must have still water to thrive. So, if you have a waterfall or fountain, you can try to place them near the edge furthest away from it and see how it does. Plant them in a larger clay pot, at least 8 inches wide and use small pea gravel.
Be sure not to bury the crown and place them no deeper than 6 inches below the surface. They need warm water to bloom. If you have fish, you won’t even need to fertilize. If you don’t have fish, you may want to use aquatic plant food tabs. Tropical Lilies come in a rainbow of colors and are worth every penny! They spread out quite a bit and provide much needed shade for the water, reducing the chances of algae. Unfortunately, not every water garden will have room them.

Special Note: Be sure that the surface of your pond/container is covered by at least 50 percent with something green! If you have an algae problem, it’s usually because this key element has not being met. Also, if you are over-feeding your fish, it can cause more nutrients in the water than the plants can absorb. The fish can usually get plenty to eat in a well balanced pond. Goldfish eat mosquito larvae and algae as well as complete the ecosystem, just not too many. If you have properly balanced your water garden, a pump and filter will not be needed, and the water will be clear. If you experience an algae bloom add more plant material until it clears. Have faith; it will.

Pest Control

Sun, 16 Aug 2009 10:00:20 -0400

GO ORGANIC IN THE GARDEN! By Donna Torrey
Why should you garden organically? Pesticides are the #1 source of water pollution in the United States! Unfortunately, most people are unaware that there are alternatives to using toxic chemicals which harm our bodies and our environment. Never pick up another poison, because here they are, listed according to pest, products that will solve your garden problems without injuring you or the environment.
ANTS, SPIDER MITES, WHITEFLY, THRIPS - Because these insects are mobile, they can be tricky. Spraying in early morning and evening is important because they are slower due to lower temperatures. Pyrethrins are a chemical derived from a certain chrysanthemum flower. It is a potent knock down, contact killer that works as a quick and deadly poison to all insects, including beneficials such as ladybugs, butterflies and bees. Spray when these insects are not present and it is not windy. Nothing works better on ants in and around the home. For complete control, spray once per week for three weeks, it has a pleasant smell and as a concentrate is inexpensive.
APHIDS– Aphids can be brown, green, black or yellow, and are always found on the newest growing tips, where they suck plant juices, causing deformity and spreading disease. Thankfully, they are easy to kill. Sometimes just hosing them off is sufficient, but if you want to use a product, soaps, oil, neem and pyrethrins will kill them with ease. If you leave them be, the native ladybugs will arrive and colonize the area as they devour them, then they will move on to the next feast. You can also buy ladybugs to get a jump on things. Ladybugs are an effective control. Be careful not to over fertilize, as this can attract aphids to the succulent new growth
CATERPILLARS– unless you have planted butterfly-attracting plants specifically for larval host plants, most caterpillars are from pest moths. These are most notably seen on bougainvilleas, oleanders, night blooming jasmine, tomatoes and others. You can use BT or Bacillus thuringensis, which when ingested by caterpillars disrupts its digestion causing death. It is not safe to use on food plants though, and I would suggest using neem or garlic spray to control them on food crops.
FLEAS, TICKS AND BEETLES– The best way to control these are by attacking their reproduction. Since these insects must reproduce in the soil, Beneficial Nematodes are very effective. These nematodes attack the insects in the larval (grub) stage, using them as food for their own reproduction. They are also effective against the bad nematodes in the soil that attack susceptible plant roots. To kill adult fleas and ticks, you can use pyrethrins and DE.
FUNGUS PROBLEMS, LEAF SPOTS– For fungus problems, Neem is fantastic. In addition, it also is a potent insecticide that kills by altering the insect’s metabolism. It can be safely used on all food crops up to day of harvest. Neem is a historically significant tree used not only to kill insects and fungus, but also disease in humans. If you want to keep it simple, Neem can be your “one stop shop” for plant pests and diseases. This is a great product, and is highly recommended for use on orchids.
IGUANAS -These unwelcome critters can be repelled using products such as Garlic Barrier, and Neem. They do not like the smell and taste and will stay away from those plants sprayed. There is also encapsulated garlic called Plant Pro-Tec that clips on to affected plants and will repel for at least 6 months without having to re-spray, which will need to be done weekly with the other products.
LEAF MINERS, MOSQUITOS- Because leaf miners live between the leaves of plants, they can be very hard to control. The actual pest is a night flying moth that lays eggs on the leaf, whose larvae then tunnel into the leaf and feed. The trick is to repel the moth from laying its eggs in the first place. Garlic works great for this and is also labeled for use against mosquitoes. A concentrate made from pure garlic oil called “Garlic Barrier” works well, as does “Plant Protec”, which are clip on capsules loaded with garlic concentrate. These products will also repel deer, rabbits and iguanas.
SCALE, MEALYBUG - These are some of the hardest insects to control unless you know about horticultural oils. Oils kill insects by coating their bodies and thereby suffocating them. It is 100% effective and the insect can develop no resistance. A good product is made from fish and/or vegetable oils, not petroleum. Oil is also effective against white fly, spider mites and aphids. This one product will control 99.9% of your problem insects. It is best to spray in early morning or late afternoon to lessen the effects of photo-toxicity. Spray once per week for three weeks for total control of insect and hatching eggs.
SNAILS – Most snail baits are highly toxic to humans, pets and wildlife. A better alternative is Sluggo, which is totally non-toxic and works great. Hand picking at night and dropping them in a bucket of soapy water is effective also. Used in combination, they keep snails in check. Beneficial snails called Decollate snails actually eat the snail eggs and baby snails, but must be used alone as they will also eat the Sluggo and die. A new study has found that snails die in the presence of caffeine! Put those old coffee grounds around susceptible plants. DE or Diatomaceous Earth, horticultural grade, also works for crawling insects such ants and cockroaches.
WEED KILLERS– “Roundup” has questionable safety, and the best way to control weeds is to suppress them with mulch and desirable ground covers, as well as good old-fashioned hand pulling! A new study has found that a 20% acidity vinegar solution is an effective weed killer, but straight white vinegar (5%) works pretty well. There is a new product called “Avenger” that is made from limonene, an orange rind derivative that also works very well and is available.
BIODIVERSITY – Biodiversity, the idea of planting many different plant genus and species in order to avoid monoculture, is actually the best defense against plant diseases and pests. The less you have of one particular plant, the less likely you are to attract the insect or disease that is partial to it.
HEALTHY SOIL – Healthy plants begin with healthy soil. Using chemical fertilizers and pesticides destroy the delicate soil microorganisms that provide essential elements for plants to thrive. Using chemicals destroys Mycorhizzae, the natural, beneficial soil fungus that exists, and actually protect and nurtures plant roots. Mycorhizzae is available for sale to inoculate your soil. Chemicals also destroy earthworms, which break down organic matter and turn it into natural fertilizers and aerate the soil. Use only organic fertilizers such as compost, cottonseed meal, composted chicken and cow manure, kelp meal, and fish emulsions. These not only provide excellent nutrition, but also feed the soil and will never burn. These slow release natural fertilizers will also prevent groundwater contamination.
MULCH – Never use dyed, recycled, or cypress mulch. The red mulch is poisonous and cypress is non-renewable. Instead, use pine bark, pine needles or straw, or simply use tree trimmings and grass clippings from your own yard. Start a compost pile!
DONNA’S HOME-MADE ALL PURPOSE PEST CONTROL:
- Fill a one quart spray bottle with water and add:
1 tsp. Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint soap, liquid (soap kills sucking insects, peppermint disturbs their nervous systems and repels) You can use another mild coconut based soap.
1 tsp. Vegetable oil (coats and kills scale and other sucking insects)
1 tsp. Baking Soda (raises PH, less susceptible to fungus), and/or a few drops of tea tree or neem oil (anti-viral and anti-fungal)
-This solution will solve 99% of all insect and fungus problems.
-Always spray in early morning or evening.
-Spray once per week for three consecutive weeks to kill any hatching eggs.